The Diner Under the El

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It sounds wacky, but somehow Redzepi and his crew manage to make it all delicious. As well as deeply pleasurable: Noma continues to offer what may well be the most engaged—and engaging—service in the world. Celler de Can Roca, Girona, Spain. Celler de Can Roca is run by three brothers — head chef Joan, sommelier Josep, and pastry chef Jordi — who came by their trade honestly: they learned it from their parents.

Josep brings lucky guests on a tour of his cellar, where favorite wines have been singled out for multi-sensory treatments. Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy. The first sign that this is not your ordinary upscale Italian restaurant comes from the abstract contemporary paintings on the wall, but the art continues on the plate. And like his spectacular lacquered eel, which Bottura serves with saba and polenta to represent the apples and corn the eel would encounter on its way up the nearby Po river, his dishes are made more evocative by the stories that accompany them.

In this hushed yet theatrical dining room, Swiss-born chef Daniel Humm takes the whole farm-to-table movement, imbues it with a bit of French savoir-faire, and, like an alchemist, comes out with the quintessential New York restaurant. Excellent service — graceful, attentive, modern — adds to the sense of supreme well-being. Heston Blumenthal took his fascination with English culinary history and turned it into something unexpectedly interesting for the rest of us.

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